Three days in Darjeeling

From what I can tell, everyone that comes to Darjeeling is looking for R&R or just to get away from the pollution in the big cities and head for the green hills. My guesthouse is right next to the Chowrasta or walking area. There are shops lined up on both sides of the street in this area.

So I guess I am doing what the locals are doing as well. I went to three restaurants mentioned in the Lonely Planet guidebook and they didn't let me down -- Glenary's which has been around about 80 years, Frank Ross Cafe, and Hotel Lunar. At Glenary's I had rice, chapati, aloo masala (potatoes with masala spices), veggie pakora (fried veggie wantons), and tea. I realized I ordered too much when they brought out about 15 pieces of the pakora. I tried to cancel some of the food but it was too late. At Frank Ross I had momo's which are steamed dumplings with cabbage and onion filling. They also make beef dumplings. I also had cholla batura which is chick peas with a sort of gravy and spicy onion sauce, and fried bread that is puffy. But the best dinner, I must say, was at Hotel Lunar. They specialized in South Indian cuisine. I had a paper dosa, veggie stuffed uttapam or pancake, and aloo mater (potatoes and peas). The two sauces go on top of either the uttapam or dosa (see attached photo).

For a town called Darjeeling, I thought I would be served amazing darjeeling teas everywhere. This is not the case as most teas are just average and they don't tell you which estate they come from.

I did find a little tea shop called Nathmull's. They have two locations. One is for purchasing teas, and the other is for purchasing and tasting. They had 7 first flush 2011 darjeelings and many other darjeelings that never make it outside of India.

Most of the tastes are about $2-3. However their most expensive tea goes for double that. I was sticking with the organics and tried 2 teas each day. I am taking extensive tasting notes and may buy some tea on my way back to Darjeeling after my trek.

I had been purchasing clothing, scarfs, tea, and other gifts and I wanted to ship some items to the US. When I entered the post office I was taken back to about 1920.

There was a long line to the left with about 4 counters enclosed in glass, a multi-use counter straight ahead with no queue, and a man sitting on a chair in the corner with a small table in front of him. Of course I went to the multi-use counter and the woman sent me to the man in the corner.

They don't have boxes or envelopes to pack your goods, so you go to the authorized packer. First the man packed all my stuff within the two bags that I bought. Then he packed it in re-used plastic wrap. Next he wrapped it in linen and hand stitched it all together. Last but not least he took a candle and sealed the stitching all over with red wax. This was required in order to be shipped. I had to fill out the customs forms and he also sealed that on the package with wax.

I had to write the address on the package. I had two options for delivery -- three weeks and six weeks. I did get a receipt and they did ask for my email, so there is a possibility the package can be tracked!!!

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bilochun/sets/72157627201893103/